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MapDescription
Start 30 feet right of
Crack of Dawn
and the next one to the right of
Head Cheese
. Go up a short slab past 4 bolts to a dark, steeper section with a corner on the left and 3 more bolts to anchors.
The slab is very nice and would be worth 2 stars if it went to the top. Unfortunately I thought the second half was quite contrived. The climbing steers you into the corner, and I ended up traversing right to make the second to last clip. From here, it is actually 5.10 to the anchors, but the final hold looks like it is much worse than it is, so I ended up going left again. Even if the upper face is 5.10, it is way too tempting to climb the corner. This is worth doing if you need a warm-up in the area.
Protection
7 bolts to a 2 bold anchor.
Routes in The Gym
- 66Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America5.10a/bSport