The New Vernacular

The guidebook raves about this route (the author was the first ascensionist), and while it has some excellent climbing and excellent rock, it is basically a discontinuous squeeze job from which it is possible at several points to step over to

Natty Dread

or

Gastoned Again

.

There is a hard move at the first bolt, then easy climbing. There is a much harder than anything else crux passing a looks-like-the-crux bulge around the fifth bolt which can be avoided at 5.11 by making a move left to

ND

, a move up and then back R to TNV (TNV is 11+ done this way). Some much easier climbing follows to a roof. From the roof to the top is an excellent passage of thin off-vertical face climbing.

This is on the Mammoth Wall just left of the

Gastoned Again

corner.

11 bolts.