- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an excellent, relatively well-bolted sport climb with a nice mix of bouldery and delicate movement, marred only by the fact that the rock is a bit gritty in places. The route follows an undulating, gently arching flake feature for four bolts, then breaks straight up the knobby face to another bolt and, eventually, heads right to the anchors shared with Nine Lives and Gold Chains. The meat of the climbing consists of two back-to-back boulder problems between the first and third bolts, which use a combination of tiny holds and big holds that, frustratingly, all seem to face the wrong way.
Despite the fact that it was done in the 90s, I do not believe this route appears in any guidebook. I have also heard it described as everything from 12a to 13a. The McDevitts originally gave it 12a, but Dan agrees it is a hefty sandbag at that grade. I felt that 12c would be fair, although it's a tricky style to grade with much confidence. One way or another, I hope more people try this engaging and intricate route.
As with Nine Lives, a reasonable way to approach the route is to climb Gold Chains (10a) to the shared anchor, then suss the moves on TR.
Location
See picture. This is the aesthetic, arching flake feature between Cat's Squirrel and Nine Lives.
Protection
Five bolts to shared anchor (chains with fixed snap gates).
Routes in Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle
- 19Pussy Paws5.12Sport