Desperado

A difficult sport climb up the steep face to the left of Desperate Straights.

Begin in the same chimney as Desperate Straights, then about 15ft up reach around the corner to clip a bolt. Climb out of the chimney and around the corner to a follow the arete past more bolts to another chimney. Either chimney or stem through a runout section to more bolts on the face under a roof. Undercling the bottom of the roof (crux, pretty stout for the grade) then mantel over the lip on huge knobs. Climb up past more big knobs and a couple more bolts to a bolted anchor on a sandy ledge.

The first part of the climb is contrived, hard, awkward and the rock is flakey, but turning the roof is wild and really defines the route, and the upper section is fun knob climbing as well.

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap. Some small cams can be used if you chimney through the runout section in the middle. Also bring some shoulder-length slings to extend some of the bolts.