- Edit (TBD)
Description
The Reid guide has you solo far right up a short 5.8 hand crack into a 4th class romp to a giant ledge, then walk left along this ledge to start the dihedral. You can alternatively climb the .10b crux section of Boneheads to gain said ledge. I personally think going direct via the Boneheads start is better, as it adds another technical element to the already diverse style of climbing required for Rocky Horror Show.
From the ledge, start with a hand crack to a small roof. The crack thins to sustained 5.10 fingers until about 2/3 of the way up. A short 5.11-ish section gets you to the first pairing of bolts which protects the route's physical crux. Top these 2 bolts and do a couple of .11 moves to a triplet of bolts. These 3 bolts protect the technical crux. Fire this section and don't botch the final mantle.
I recommend stretching your groin in preparation of the inevitable ninja stemming.
Location
The giant dihedral directly above the start of Boneheads.
Protection
Doubles from blue alien to BD .5, singles from BD .75 to 2. There are 5 bolts (8 if you do the direct start via Boneheads) to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Optional small offset nuts or extra thin gear.
Routes in Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle
- 33Rocky Horror Show5.12aTrad