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Peak Mountain 3

My-Toe-Sis

FA Ray Jardine and Chris Ball, May 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great crag route further along the same access ledge that is used to get to the start of The Wedge (see the

description of that route

for details).  My-Toe-Sis starts further up the ledge to the west, is above The Tube and below a huge, right-facing corner system that terminates at a large roof near the top of the cliff.  Find the start by following a vegetated gully above the access ledge, aiming for a right-facing, arching corner that leads to an undercling below the massive right-facing corner described above.

Climb up the nice, arching corner until it becomes an undercling that heads out to the right. Past the undercling, duck around and under the bottom of the crack as it transitions into a large, hanging flare.  There is a crouching rest below the flare here where you can compose yourself and work out the crux (5.11b), which consists of a few difficult fist-sized moves needed to leave the crouch and pull yourself up into the flare.

Rappel 80 ft. from a bolt-anchor

Location

Further along the same access ledge that is used to get to The Wedge (see that route's description), and well above The Tube.

Protection

Standard rack up to 4"