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Peak Mountain 3

Corkscrew

FA Hugh Dougher, Ron Matthews
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Corkscrew is a great route. The rock on top of the second pitch is high quality for the gap. Some punchy overhang moves on P1; P2 has a scary PG13/R corner off the belay, an indimidating traverse, and some overhang moves to a top out similar to Modern Times.

Scramble up 15 feet off the trail to a ledge with some trees to start.

P1. Climb a slab to a left facing corner that starts at the left end of a low roof. Climb straight up the corner, plug your gear, and pull the overhanging moves above, exiting right (crux) to a belay.

P2. Climb up the corner above on very thin gear, exit right (Mental crux, scary, great gear just after the scary part) just below the ceiling. Continue up easier ground for a bit and find a good belay.

P3.  Head right below and thru a series of roofs (Fixed pin far right), topping out at a distinct step in the last roof (second crux, well protected).  Belay at a set of rappel bolts and a stout cedar tree.

Protection

Micro gear to protect the first 20 feet of P2. Red and Blue Ball Nuts very useful. Many runners and gear up to 3 or 4 inches. Highly recommend using Double Ropes on this route.

To Descend, do an almost entirely free-hanging rap from the 2 bolts at the top of p3 with 2 60m ropes. You will land precisely where you started the route.