We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Martin's Fall

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Start up some easy terrain, passing a bulge/small roof on the right and heading up to a second, larger roof, with two knifeblade pitons (Optional belay). Pass the roof on the left, Then make your way right to the corner at the top of a short slab under another large roof (slightly difficult route finding & gear). Semi-hanging belay here on medium-small gear.

For a better variant, climb P1 of Tree Toad Fracture.  The routes share the belay at the end of P1, doesn't change the grade, and protects well after the initial 5.easy runout to the corner.

P2. Move up the steep corner on good holds and good gear. Once esablished under the next (largest) roof, traverse left around the point (Note 1) and belay at the Corkscrew Cedar.  Gear is sufficient, but not plentiful.

Note 1 - there are two things to be concerned with at the point.  The upper large horizontal crack and the lower half inch horizontal crack... the rope will likely want to run thru one of them, it won't get stuck, but the edges are sharp.  Careful gear extension will  keep the rope out.

Descend via double rope rap from the 2 bolts atop corkscrew.  Very airy rappel.

Location

about 40 feet uphill of corkscrew there is a faint trail that splits off to the left into an easy 3rd class gully. The climb starts at the end of the 3rd class, below a massive roof at the top of the cliff and a left facing dihedral.

Protection

Pro to #2 Camalot. 2 fixed pins at middle of p1, Rap anchor (2 bolts) at the Corkscrew belay ledge at the end of p2. I had to work for gear on p1 and felt it was rather spaced.