Beacons to Mars

A classic must do on the Cal Domes agenda, Beacons to Mars climbs through some of the best rock the dome has to offer and is protected just enough to offer a great intro to some of the spicier side of what Cal Domes has to offer. Every pitch is unique and presents its own set of challenges and rewards. Many bolts were replaced up to pitch 5 in 2004. The rest were taken care of in 2012 to the top except for a few.

Pitch 1.

(5.10bR) Start by scrambling up a short left facing corner to a big ledge. Locate the first bolt about 12 feet up and begin climbing the immaculate face above on great friction slabs and the occasional knob past 4 bolts. The pitch is mildly runout between bolts but the crux moves are well protected.

Pitch 2.

(5.10cR)  Traverse out slightly left and up to a bolt on a thin ledge. Move strait up to a small corner which accepts marginal pro. Climb above the corner to a bolt. Hop from knob to knob until you reach a shallow trough. Follow the trough and make an exciting move onto thin knobs and work pure friction climbing above to the anchor. Clean falls rule...! Runouts between bolts are manageable and have clean falls.

Pitch 3.

(5.9) Traverse 30 feet to the right  to another anchor below a vertical dike.

Pitch 4.

( 5.10c) Climb the dike above passing a large rock scar and loose block to the left. Tiptoe out left along the dike past several bolts until you can climb another vertical dike and knobs to a small ledge and a two bolt anchor. Exposed!!

Pitch 5.

(5.9) Follow the dike above past two bolts and a series of small roofs to a two bolt anchor. Spooky.

Pitch 6.

(5.10b) Climb a low angle crack which ends at a steep ledge. You can climb the corner to the right with thin sketchy gear (.10+) or hand traverse left along a dirty crack to the left which has good gear and a fixed pin to the left edge of a good ledge. The Cottrell guide is misleading on this pitch. Follow your instincts. Two bolt anchor on the ledge just out of sight.

Pitch 7.

(5.10) Climb a short corner to a two bolt anchor above but don't continue or rope drag and a long pitch ahead will thwart your progress. 40ft.

Pitch 8.

(5.9R) Climb a wild short undercling out right onto the face past a couple bolts which lead to a two bolt anchor. Runnout but on easy terrain.

Pitch 9.

(5.6R) Follow the slab and a shallow trough through a low angle face to a two bolt anchor. No pro on the runout face but easy low angle climbing.

Pitch 10.

(5.5) Follow the corner above to the top of Old Smokey  and rap the Old Smokey Rappel route. Most parties, if going this high on the route stop at Pitch 9 and rappel the route from there. You can rappel Old Smokey or down Beacons to Mars with some traversing with 2 60m ropes.

Starts of the far left side of the North Face Aprons main slab. Look for the Beacons emanating from the rock.

Single rack to 2" Nuts 1 set.