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Peak Mountain 3

Shaman

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Description

Shaman starts just after the French Connection. The pitches up to the French Connection are described under the route Medicine Man.

At the top of the French Connection, you'll see Shaman Ledge moving off to the right.

Pitch 1.

(5.11b) Follow the diminishing ledge to the right past several bolts and make a .11 move around the corner entering the Shaman dihedral.

Pitch 2.

(5.11a) Stem your way up the dihedral past several bolts and thin gear to a two bolted anchor.

Pitch 3.

(5.11b or 5.10b) Follow the steep dihedral which trends to the right passing a couple bolts. Exit the dihedral on a thin slab t past a bolt to a big ramp. Two bolt anchor on ledge. There is an alternate 5.10b variation which climbs above the dihedral on the face. Don't get suckered into moving left across the slab of Medicine Man. Stay along the dihedrals edge.

Pitch 4.

(5.6R) Follow the ramp to a small roof, climb above the roof and  follow a low angle dike with knobs to a big ledge.

From the ledge, traverse left to the anchors of Medicine Man and rappel that route. Or continue further left and rappel down Wall of the Worlds. It is possible to traverse the large ledge to the right through several easy pitches of 5th class to a short 5.9 dihedral which leads to the top of the dome.

Location

Starts on Medicine Man and traverses right after the French Connection bolt ladder.

Protection

Cams to 2". Nuts, 1 set.