Dangerous Acquaintances

This is an Alec Sharp route put-up in the 1980s just left of Temporary like Achilles, where the roof wall abuts the lower ramp. It was a super-impressive ground-up lead by Sharp, who spent multiple hours on the purple face punctuated by hollow overlaps, tossing off loose holds and puzzling through the various 5.11 cruxes.

The modern version (the Derek Hersey variation) goes straight up above the rotten break on small layaways and is the most common way to do the route.

Start just left of Temporary, underclinging the lower roof to grab some jugs over the lip (a decent TCU goes in here). Stretch high and right, then commit to the small, offset, left-facing corner.

Bucket haul through the break and head straight up the face. A nest of RP's behind flakes protects a crimpy move to gain the undercling flakes. Follow these to the anchors, four pins and a fixed wire about seven feet up and left of the double-bolts for Temporary.

You can easily toprope this by doing Temporary and cruising left along the break to the anchors.

Lots of RPs, a long sling for a horn, double TCU's from Metolius purple (#0) through 2" size (Metolius green), small wires.