Guenese

This is a really fun route. The start is .10- and has a kind of bad fall potential. Climb the face up to the roof .10+ and crank over the roof on jugs immediately after .10. If you do this in one pitch, it feels about .11b (still easier than super spar!) because of the pump factor. There are bolts over the roof you can rap off of. Another option is to climb to the bolts below the roof (.10+) and set a toprope here. If you want, you can climb some 5.8 from this lower anchor to the anchor atop

Downpressor Man

(mid .12 for shorter people like me) and toprope this route also. This is probably the best protected of all the roof routes, and is one of the easier ones also.

Standard rack. Bolts protect the hard sections, supplemented with small to medium stoppers and TCUs.