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Peak Mountain 3

Psycho

FA Steve Wunsch
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The entire route including is rarely done. The roof is a historic classic.

The first pitch is about two stars and is a good quick roof route. Begin this route up and left of

Fire and Ice

(the route just left of

Guenese

). Look for a bolt just left of a shallow, rounded, right-facing dihedral. This bolt is twenty feet off the ground and requires 5.8 climbing to get to it, hence the s rating. After the bolt, decipher a very funky, Eldoesque crux (crux for shorter people, easier for taller people) and climb up to a decent pin. Climb above the pin to an ok bolt and traverse straight right to a two bolt belay .10.

The second pitch continues over the roof on .12+ climbing.

Protection

A bolt, a pin, then a bolt.