Temporary Like Achilles

This is the route directly to the left of

Evangeline

. It is identified by a large attached flake with a bunch of chalk. Ascend this flake (crux) via some face moves to a left-angling slot affair. Climb up the slot a little ways, fiddle in some pro, then pull over a minor roof on jugs to a bolt. From here, take a direct line up to a two bolt anchor via a 5.9 seam with supplemental edges. There is another bolt (and formerly a pin) along this section. A historic classic, and a good quick route also.

Eds. There is a roof pitch, freed by Ben Moon at 13d. It continues above the roof.

Definitely dangerous, although not too hard for its original rating (.10c). You pull the crux 15 feet up w/ no pro, you're not going to die, but could easily twist your ankle. Slightly runout up higher, bring some TCUs for the pin scars.

Eds. the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone.

Per

Carl Schaefer

: you can protect with 0.4-#2 Camalots plus optional TCUs or small offset cams for the pin scars on the (otherwise) slightly runout upper face and quickdraws for the two bolts. There are fixed carabiners at the anchor.