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Peak Mountain 3

The Lost Dutchman

FA Swamp Donkeys 12/19
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

3 pitches, 300 ft, great climbing on every pitch. P1: dark corner with crack and amazing pockets. Continue past Squatter’s ledge on your right to anchor at base of short chimney, 105ft, 5.8+. P2, crux pitch: up and trending left on cracks to nice rest ledge left of dark dihedral. Step left and make airy move over bulge on good gear but blind placement - committing to finger crack. Pass redundant anchor and move left pass single bolt to ledge, 100ft, 5.10a. P3: Up fun, featured face toward deepening groove and crack with initially sparse pro, but easy climbing. Continue toward steeper crack above, right of a roof, with good rock that eats pro, 100ft, 5.7. 2 bolt anchor on ledge just below summit view. Easy scramble to summit past a large cairn. Descent: 3 raps with 70m rope.

Location

Approximate middle of wall. Route starts in obvious, large corner in middle of wall, just left of short, wide crack that is WWDN. To get to the start you will scramble up a short boulder and crack that leads to the base of the route/dihedral.

Protection

BD .3 to 4 doubles, one #5, nuts, alpine draws.