Sonoran Gold

This route starts on a big ledge about 80’ up. To get there, scramble up a wide chimney system to the right then traverse back left to a two bolt anchor. The face / crack below can be TRed with two moves of 5.11+ then 5.6.Note: These ratings are my opinion and are only a suggestion in relation to the pitches in this area.P1: (5.10- ⭐️⭐️⭐️) “The Good Choss” - Climb up the splitter crack avoiding the first ledge on the left and continue following the crack rightwards to a bushy cave with a single bolt. Back up bolt with gear 125’.P2: (5.6 PG13 ⭐️) Move the belay to the ledge up and left. Climb up the short corner then traverse right through chossy ramp with an interesting hour glass feature to two bolt anchor below twin cracks 80’.P3: (5.11 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️) “The Minecart” - A variety of techniques makes this pitch one of the best on the wall. Face climb up four bolts (5.11) then begin a mixture of face, lieback and twin crack climbing. Resting when you can helps, it’s fairly sustained in the 5.10 range. This pitch ends after a short slabby bit to a ledge with a high crack and solid gear. Hand size cams to belay. 85’P4: (5.9+ ⭐️⭐️) Climb up corner and into crack near arete. Go up and over crack and continue around the right side of the mushroom shaped rock above. Climb the low angle slab / chimney behind the mushroom rock to the top. Belay with boulders on top. 100’P2/3 variation: (5.9 ⭐️) To avoid the 5.11 finish, continue past the two bolt anchor marking the end of the traditional pitch two. At the end of the ledge is a big dihedral, climb up the big dihedral (5.9). There is another ledge halfway up the dihedral with a two bolt anchor. From there climb choss to the top (5.8). Belay on boulders on top.Descent: Rappel the Lost Dutchman route. The raps start 100’ right of the top of P4. Look for the big cairn and easy down climb to the ledge below. Use the climber’s right side bolted anchor to begin the rap. Three single rope rappels to reach the ground. At the bottom, scramble down to your packs.

The first section of the wall you encounter on the approach. Look for a 100’ right trending splitter hand crack that starts about 80’ up from a ledge. It will lead to the striking twin cracks of P3 above.

70M rope, doubles BD .3-3, singles of tiny cams and nuts.