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Peak Mountain 3

Cold Fever

FA Scott Duemler, Sam Foreman, Cory Talman. 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is the longest on the wall, and possibly the best. P1 starts within an opening formed in the shadow of trees and brush, creating a peaceful little spot at the base of a crack. Climb up vertical crack 20 feet, then traverse right along ledge and continue up past small bulge. Scramble past bush then make your way across divide, follow a horizontal crack left under a tree to 2 bolt anchor, 5.7, 105ft. P2, an amazing pitch up an open book past a single bolt. Runout and exciting above bolt, with great stemming and some tricky pro when you get it. Continue up on easier climbing on grippy jugs, flakes, and pockets to 2 bolt anchor. The whole pitch is fantastic, 5.9+ pg13. P3: The Claim Jumper’s Pitch! Up obvious hand crack – steep but easier than it looks due to good feet and great hand jams. One of the best pitches on the wall. Two bolt anchor, 5.10a 80ft. P4: Step left a couple feet from anchor and start up chimney-like opening that leads to ledge then beautiful corner with good rock, combination of hands, fingers, and good face features. Good pro, top out in blocky, left side chimney, 5.9, 85ft.

Location

Approximately 200 feet up gully look left for an opening in the brush under a tree. Left of the tree is the base of a crack that ascends vertically approx. 20, then continues along a ledge trending right.

Protection

Doubles BD .2 through #4, single #5 (you can skip the #5 if you don't have it but it's nice on P2), nuts. Offset cams are also helpful, several alpine and sport draws.