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Peak Mountain 3

Woody Wampler’s Dusty Nuggets

FA The Jesuits AKA Sam Foreman & the Swamp Donkeys, 12/1607
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the big ledge climb the slab or traverse in from the left side. Climb the gently overhung crack (5.10+) using the right side of the pillar. Once on top of the pillar, dust your nuggets in the squeeze (5.8) or cheese your way up on the outside clipping two bolts along the way. A BD 7 or gear in pockets (local ascent) can be used instead of the bolts. After twenty or so feet, the crack pinches down to a hand / fist size. From there, easy terrain to a ledge with a two bolt rap anchor.

Location

Look for the obvious wide crack. This route and the Lost Dutchman start by scrambling up onto a sloping ledge below the routes.

Protection

60M, 70M preferred, doubles BD 1 and 2, single .3-4, nuts.