Oral in the Dark

A really stellar pitch up an unlikely face, much cleaner than the initial crack would make it appear. Scary lead but can be easily TRd by climbing "Trap 'Em!" first and traversing a few feet to the anchors.

Start in a dirty crack to get established on the ledge above where the good stuff is. Step right and enter a broken crack system under the roof. Pull on very interesting holds making committing runout moves to reach a prominent horizontal crack. Place pro and work up with difficulty on to an exposed and unlikely face with fun thought-provoking moves and tricky gear.

Named for an inside joke made by one of Kris' campers at his nearby summer camp and a nod to the fact that the FA was at night.

About 30 feet right of 5th class and 15 feet right of Sammy-Jo Traceyville.

The pro on this is very specific and after the first piece there is a sizable runout (15-20ft) before the next opportunity for gear. It's 5.10- terrain through this section on good holds but be aware this is not a beginner's lead.

The second half has gear at good intervals although it is tricky to find. Keep looking, it's there and it is good. All crux moves at the top are well protected.

One can easily set a toprope on this climb by climbing Trap 'Em!

Two-bolt anchor.