- Edit (TBD)
Description
A committing line that is headier than the moves themselves. Well protected except for the lowest section (5.6). A super fun roof and great laybacking at the top.
Begin on easy loose blocks to a good stance with great pro under the roof. Go ahead and place all seven #3 camalots you have. Establish yourself on good holds to pull out from the roof with some great exposure over raging rapids. A wild position for a 5.9! Finally, work up into a stance in the wide crack before a final pumpy layback crux to the top.
No offwidth technique required. :P
Location
About 15 feet right of 5th Class. You'll know you've found it if you are standing under a massive fist-sized roof crack.
Protection
Skip the small stuff, nothing smaller than a .75 is useable. Lead without a #4 although one could be helpful before the layback finish where the crack is wide.
Now has a two-bolt anchor.
Routes in Eagle Falls
- 45Sammy-Jo Traceyville5.9Trad