The Hydrofax

An adventure-style sport route that tackles the biggest roof at Eagle Falls. The most exposure and wildest position I've gotten out of a single pitch in the Adirondacks. The first half is a bit chossy but the upper half is bullet. Several fixed draws make bailing (especially at the crux) easy to do without losing gear.Begin up a loose start to reach the first bolt. Delicately climb through a small runout to a fixed draw. Continue up powerful climbing to a loose block before traversing right to a left-facing corner. OK, the scary climbing is done! Up the corner and make a very technical traverse right to fire the roof with gymnastic moves. Finally, work left on crimps and power straight up to a ring-bolt anchor on 5.8 terrain.Be diligent about using alpine draws and be weary of loose rock for the first several bolts. Treat this climb like a trad climb and watch for rope drag around the roof.Named after the mythical lake monster who lurks in nearby Beaver Lake.

A few fixed draws will guide you to the base of the route. The first bolt is about 15 feet up (super easy climbing). The start is 150 feet right of Seventeen and roughly 75 feet left of Class Five Look for the biiig roof system.

14 bolts. Some have fixed draws. Ring-bolt anchor.