Peak Mountain 3

Eagle Falls

Description

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This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is brittle in some places, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect but the popular routes are worth traveling for.This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so loud that communication with a leader is often impaired or impossible depending on your route.The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock although another wave of new route activity in the last few years (2015 - 2020) is not yet in print.Highlights are Class Five and The Hydrofax, two of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sit above noisy rapids, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, Go to Bread, delicate face climbing, El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face, No Fun at Camp No Sex at Breakfast, Eagle Falls' hardest climbing, and Let the Wild Rumpus Start which Jim Lawyer gave the high praise of calling, "One of the best 5.12c's in the park."


Local climbing organizations

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