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Peak Mountain 3

More Raisins

FA Todd Burrill, Dave Steres and Dick Leversee in 1976
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A diagonal, traversing route that traverse to and under the Great Arch.

Start by climbing up the right facing sickle flake/crack until possible to move left onto the face near the end of the sickle formation.  Climb up to a "blocky horn" and then traverse diagonally left and barely up to a belay from a large horn and a single bolt.

Climb up to a big knob hold just above the horizontal ridge.  Traverse left on the ridge for around 30 feet to knobs which lead to a large shallow scoop.  Climb past a bolt and up to a big horn.  From the horn, traverse left and slightly down around a corner "the down staircase" to a belay ledge at the base of the Great Arch.  Long pitch, around 165 feet.

4th class climbing over to the top of the Munch Pinnacle.

Follow the Arch Finish for two pitches.  At the top of the Munch Pinnacle, climb past a bolt to the Great Arch and follow the arch around a corner to a belay at some "buckets".

Continue following the arch then climb down to the summit bolts.  Scramble off.

If that sounds "interesting" and slightly confusing...then, heed this advice from the good ol' SSRC Needles guidebook:

The one route that seems to scare most people is More Raisins.  Rated 5.7/5.8, it is probably the most difficult route finding problem on Dome Rock.  It is not recommended as a beginner's route because it traverses several harder routes, requires a competent knowledge of knob tie-off techniques, and lacks comforting bolt protection.

Good luck and have fun!

Location

Start around 70 feet left of the left facing dihedral of Fruit at the Bottom.

Start at the pine tree at the base of a right-facing sickle.

Protection

Sparse pro on the first two pitches. Occasional bolt. Knowledge of how to sling knobs a must have skill. Medium to large nuts and cams to 3.5" useful for the finish pitches.