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Peak Mountain 3

Anti-Jello Crack

FA FFA-P1: Yaniro, Murley (1974) FFA-P3&4: Burrill, Leversee (1976)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 (5.5): Start as for Tree Route. From atop the large Pine Tree, locate a 2-3" crack and follow it up and left. (Alternately, start on the

bolted face

to the left of Tree Route.) Belay from a shallow horizontal ledge at the start of a stunning finger crack.

P2 (5.9+ sustained): Truly classic!! Follow a left-leaning finger crack that arcs left along a clean slab. The crack starts as solid fingers and slowly tapers down to nothing. Take the time to find decent, sloping footholds out to the left. The crack takes many TCUs & small stoppers. As the crack tapers and disappears, face climb up and left to a hanging-belay from bolts.

P3 (5.10a): Step left and follow an obvious left-facing dihedral. As the corner curves to the right, the crack in the dihedral diminishes. The final 30 feet is the crux and requires small TCUs & stoppers. Belay from the 3-bolt anchor atop Tree Route's 3rd pitch.

P4 (5.6): Follow the final pitch of the Tree Route to a belay beneath an obvious horizontal crack.

Location

Approach same as Tree Route

Protection

Standard rack with extra TCUs & small Stoppers.