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Peak Mountain 3

Arwen

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Description

Arwen is an old school 5.9 slab route with significantly less bolts than the Moser guide indicates.

P1 went on two pieces of gear, heads up to a bolted anchor (somewhat) visible from the ground (if you're looking pretty hard).

P2 starts thin and gets thinner, first (only) bolt at 20', then thinthin to easier moves and slightly left to the anchor. Random bolt clippable from anchor that has no apparent value visible here.

P3 steps left, clips bolt, then back right to a tight seam than offers gear at the top. Good gear under an overlap is followed by continuous, unprotected, thin black slab that gradually eases, again, bolted anchor is slightly left at the top, just underneath a larger overlap/small roof.

Last pitch steps left and follows shallow L facing corner to overlap (gear), then old buttonhead to 5.5 slabbin' to the walkoff. Good route, thought-provoking crux, but not much gear on the entire climb. Anchor at top of P3 is experiencing serious galvanic corrosion and is in need of replacement. All other bolts besides pro bolt on last pitch (not crucial, gear just below, no tough moves above) are solid. Runout but worthwhile if you're solid at the grade. AGAIN, SEVERAL of the bolts shown in the Moser guide are not on the route-heads up.

Location

Start in the neighborhood of 30 feet right of

Tree Route

, aiming for a left-trending swoosh. Anchor visible above if you look hard enough.

Protection

Single rack and old-school slab balls. Those not psyched on single bolt pitches need not apply.