Windjammer

Windjammer starts well down on the lower face of the Dome and takes one of the longest lines to the summit. On your way down you'll pass Tobin's Dihedral and then a large pillar/block that rests against the face. The face is obvious -- a sea of giant knobs and chickenheads. The remains of an old motorcycle are in the woods near the start.

P1: This is a unique and amazing pitch. Begin by lassoing an obvious knob 20' up with the rope (it helps to stand up on a block to do this), and then delicately TR through the crux, hoping the rope doesn't fall down, until you can sling the knob for pro. The line trends leftwards and has a fair amount of traversing. Pro consists entirely of slung knobs (although I did slot in a wire between chickenheads at on point). Three times on the climb I pulled up several armloads of slack and lassoed chickenheads above to protect the climbing. Simply unreal. Belay at a two-bolt anchor. 5.10 R.

P2: If my memory serves me, one continus up on slabby rock and then enters a beautiful lieback hand crack and follows this to the next belay. I believe there were a few old bolts (in need of replacement) protecting some slab moves on this pitch. 5.10 PG13.

P3: Continue up on easier, bolt protected, slab to any of a number of anchors on low angle rock below a long roof band. Scramble off left under the roof to the summit, or rap with two ropes. 5.9+ PG13.

A very light rack plus a dozen shoulder-length slings. Rodeo skills.