Saucer Full of Secrets

Wow! Stellar moderate face climbing up an improbably looking blank face from the ground. The route name should be giveaway as to some of the crucial holds.

P1

Cruise up and left 15 feet on good edges and chips to clip the first bolt. Climb a couple of feet, take a deep breath, and mantle (10a) into a saucer. Clip the second bolt. Trend up and left on small edges to a good rail system. Get your feet on the rail and walk your feet to the right. Easy climbing here but don't blow it to clip the 3rd bolt. Go out right onto a pockety rib. Easy pocket climbing to the forth bolt. Slightly harder climbing off the forth bolt with smeary, insecure feet. Eases off to the clip the fifth bolt. Hard crux moves on smaller saucers to a well defined flat edge. There's no sixth bolt as described in Kris Solem's guidebook but fret not as the climbing is easier and very secure. Load up the thin, hollow flake with small TCUs to get your head back on straight. Easier climbing up and left to the three bolt belay.

You can rap back to the ground at this point with a 70 meter. Watch your ends. Very close.

P2

Easier crack climbing up and right. Clip the only bolt on this pitch and run it out to the anchor.

P3

Slab paddling to the top.

All bolts are new stainless steel as of 2008.

20 to 30 feet to the left of the black waterstreak that makes up Carson-Oma. You will belay in the middle of three rocks. The first 20 feet trend up and left to the 1st bolt.

6 QDs, Small TCUs for the flake on P1, Medium cams for P2, a couple of slings.