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Peak Mountain 3

Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)

FA TR: John Paine FA (post-retrobolt): Bret Ruckman & Bruce Miller, 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

[This route was originally TR'd by John Paine and friend in the '80s and called Dizzy Miss Lizzy for John's girlfriend, Liz, who accompanied the climbers and was uncomfortable with the [exposure] of the East Slabs. John gave permission for the retro bolting but asked that the name to remain. Retro-named] Scrutiny on the Bounty, [it] is located on the "Wall of Holes" which is basically in a deep cleft/gully on Tower Two, just above the top-out of Redguard. The route climbs up behind a large pine tree that is growing out of this gully and was quite easy to find.

This route is really, really fun, well-protected, and steep! In fact, there probably isn't an 11 move on the climb, but surviving the pump is what probably gives it the grade.

Make an awkward stretch to a huge jug and make the first clip here. Continue up on incredible huecos to the fifth bolt, and pull onto the slab and a sixth bolt. The crux is probably the transition to the slab where you must step left and making a technical reach to a hidden, incut edge.

Great route!

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 50
    Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)
    5.11b
    Sport