Avoid the Rush

This is a fun link-up that avoids the somewhat spicey, gear intensive start to

After the Gold Rush

but still allows you to climb the really fun 12a arete.

Start on the 5.11 finger crack of

Le Void

(the right of the 2 obvious cracks). Once at the ledge, instead of launching up into the 11d tips layback on

Le Void

, step right (fun 5.9) to a stance below the bolted arete on

After the Gold Rush

. This variation is called Avoid (Roger & Bill Briggs, 1973).

Climb the arete past 2 bolts (12a). Step left at the top of the arete to the sling anchor on

Le Void

. A 60m rope will get you back to the ramp.

If you want a longer pitch -- instead of stepping left to the sling anchor on

Le Void

, you can also continue up

After the Gold Rush

(11d) passing one more bolt and then climbing the 5.11 cracks above the roof. Continue to the top via

T2

or

Seams Beyond

or rap with 2 ropes back to the ramp from a horn. Add some extra small gear to the rack if you do this longer version.