We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Inset

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an overlooked and under-traveled pitch. The unappealing start (awkward, but not bad) is followed by a great second half. Were the entire pitch like the upper half, there would be a line from it daily.

Scramble up easy territory to the

Touch and Go

roof a few meters left of that start of that route. Place a #3 Camalot overhead in a short section of solid crack and pull up and right past that gear into a the bottom of a left-facing flake. That flake rises up and left on laybacks and underclings with solid gear and great holds. Too bad the whole route is not made like this section. After passing the top of this flake, move up a few moved in a shallow, right-facing corner to a ramp/ledge.

You can improvise a belay at that ledge or continue. The best continuation is to go up to the first bolt of

Bolting for Glory

and continue up and left on the same diagonal line to intersect the upper pitch of

Touch and Go

and finish that pitch to the anchors for a 140' pitch with little or no rope drag, provided you put slings on key gear placements.

Location

A few meters right of the bottom of

Touch and Go

there is a second line in the cliff that starts below the same roof.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3" and a few extra if you run this up into

Touch and Go

as a single pitch (recommended). You can rap from the top anchor on

T&G

with a 70m rope if you stay left on rap.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 44
    The Inset
    5.8+
    Trad