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Peak Mountain 3

King Tut

FA Charlie Fowler, Bill Feiges, 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

King Tut is on Steve Levin obscure tour. It is a worthy objective, but you should have your act together before attempting it. There is quite a bit of loose rock, but all hard moves are off solid features. It is quite intimidating from below, but decent gear can be found every ~10 feet on the crux pitch.

P1: Start up steep huecos to the starting crack on

T2

off of the upper ramp. When

T2

breaks left, continue up the steep, left-facing, black groove. The crux bulge is 2/3rds of the way up the 1st pitch. Solid gear can be found and it is at your feet as you pull the funky crux moves. A final awkward bulge leads to a belay ledge on the right. Bring a long sling for the belay horn.

P2a: The original 2nd pitch heads straight up from the belay on steep rock. This pitch finishes on runout 5.5 slabs to the T2 belay (5.8R).

P2b: An alternate P2 cuts left on a crack system with good exposure and gear to the

T2

crack system (5.8+).

Location

King Tut starts left of the

Naked Edge

on the upper ramp. It shares the start of the classic

T2

finger crack pitch.

Protection

Double rack of cams to #2, singles up to #4 Friend with lots of slings.

Extra small and medium cams could be placed.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


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    King Tut
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