We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Hayden's Line

FA Josh Wharton and Corey Flynn
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hayden's Line is perhaps the proudest positioned pitch in Eldo, linking all the difficult climbing on

Between Heaven and Earth

, with the crux sections of

Wingless Victory

. The position and exposure are incredible, and the climbing is quite sustained by Eldo standards.

There is very little "filler" climbing on the pitch, and you enter the

Wingless Victory

crux with a pump. It's essentially a link up, although it does feature about 10 feet of new terrain. That said, it greatly changes the nature of the routes, and is a truly special pitch, so I think it's deserving of its own name. I think HK would approve.

Words can't express how much HK meant to me. I'll miss you buddy. Respect.

Approach the crux pitch of

Between Heaven and Earth

via the

Redguard

route (easiest and quickest option), via

Between Heaven and Earth

proper (bit chossy), or via

The Naked Edge

or

Lene's Dream

(highest quality). For the last option, you do an easy, 5.7, rightward traverse from the top of

The Edge's

second pitch to reach the crux pitch's belay.

Start up

Between Heaven and Earth's

crux pitch. At the small roof atop all the hardest climbing, bust left across underclings and around the arete into

Wingless Victory

(#1 C4 protects this bit). Climb the final twenty feet of

Wingless Victory

past two ring bolts. A long sling on the first bolt is key to keep the rope running on the east side of the arete, and the second bolt is hard to clip without a draw in place. At the big ledge traverse left to a two bolt belay on

The Naked Edge

.

From here, you can finish up

Sickness Unto Death

,

The Naked Edge

, or rappel and do

Centaur

.

Some video shot after the FA to remember HK:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6jz3e1_qLM&t=154s

.

Protection

A standard Eldo rack. The crux pitch is primarily bolts and a fixed offset, but you need two #1 C4s, a #0 C3, and plenty of alpine draws to manage rope drag.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 21
    Hayden's Line
    5.13b/c
    Trad