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Peak Mountain 3

Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent

FA Mark Tarrant, et al
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the "sport route" that climbs above

The Serpent

on Upper Redgarden. This is a unique and really cool route that I think should get more attention (and a star in the guidebook). Start with the boulder problem on

The Serpent

, then follow that sparsely protected route for 30 or 40 feet. When

The Serpent

trends left, keep going straight up, aiming for a shallow, left-facing corner system. Eventually, you'll clip the first of 8 bolts. From here, the view upward is very disheartening (it looks blank!), but hidden holds keep appearing. The first crux is right where the route veers left under a roof, and the second is at the very end and is the one of the few hard routes I've ever done where the crux of the climb is downclimbing! This is sort of like a harder, leftward version of

Le Boomerang

.

Protection

Bring wires, Tri-cams, etc. for the start, quickdraws for the second half.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 3
    Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent
    5.12a
    Sport · Trad