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Peak Mountain 3

Weeping Willow

FA Cameron Tague & Steve Levin, April 2000.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

As the arch terminates onto the green headwall the climb switches from power underclings to crimps with poor feet and big moves. Fight up the face slightly right into a semi hueco, .11d R.

Cast straight up the gorgeous face from the hueco culminating in heart throbbing moves just past a tinny sounding hold leaving you to "talk" to yourself, .10b/c X.

Location

From the bottom of the Upper Ramp roughly 50' left of the start of

Jules Verne

find the sweeping right to left tapering brown half arch. Begin as for

Green Willow Wall

at the right edge of the half arch in a left facing dihedral and establish a stance on a large flake just before turning the roof of

Green Willow Wall

. Under cling the arch leftwards until it merges with a green face and climb up and slightly right to a large pseudo hueco. Climb straight up 30' from the hueco then veer slightly left and continue on to the belay at the end of the crux upper pitch of

Jules Verne

. Finish on

Jules Verne

or one 60m rap back to the Upper Ramp.

Protection

SR with double sets of smaller technical cams. Bring along a #3 Big Bro if you really want to create the illusion of pro at the hueco.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 12
    Weeping Willow
    5.11d
    Trad